Blogpost and Artwork by Erika Venter, Monto QLD
The inspiration theme for July is Rusty Wisdom, with the kit featuring an Owl...
I was super excited to get started!
Trace the front and back of the owl onto the Rustic wood paper (or similar), then mark the position of the eyes and cut them out. Using Easycoat Glossy apply a layer onto the front of the Owl and stick the paper on. Tip: the Easycoat Glossy dries quickly so you need to work fast...
Shake & Stir Powertex Bronze well before use. Paint the inside of the eyes and the rest of the body parts (as pictured above).
Cut strips of cheese cloth or stockinette, dip it into Powertex Bronze and then drape it onto the Owl to create suspenders for the pants and texture on the head.
Mix Powertex Bronze with Stone Art to get a paste. Apply the Stone Art to the wings and layer it with bark. Then apply some onto the back of the wings, buttons, gears and the MDF eye bits and stick them onto the body. Leave to dry before the next step. Cover the leftover paste and set aside to use later.
Mix Powertex Transparent, Rusty Powder and 3D balls together, then apply it onto the Owl the desired amount. Spray with Vinegar water and let the Rust process begin.... leave for 24 hours. For more information on how to use Rusty Powder click here
Using your choice of Colourtrix metallic pigments dry brush the textures of the Owl. I got a bit carried away and found a perfect piece of wood in the garden, painted it with Powertex Bronze and made my Owl sit on it. It just finished off what I had in mind for my Rustic Old Owl. Finally, I used Easycoat Glossy to glue the glass eyes on, as well as the back of the owl.
This was so much fun and I love my end result.
This Owl project will allow you to experiment with the Rust powder,
3DBalls, Stone Art and Easy3Dflex.
Join me on my creative journey with Powertex
Enjoy the ride...
Artwork & Blogpost by Erika Venter, QLD
The inspiration theme for this month is Steampunk and the kit is a Dragonfly which is now available from powertex...
I was super exited to get started!
Stir & shake Powertex Bronze well before use, assemble and paint the MDF Dragonfly. Use bigger gears and stick them with Powertex onto the middle of the body to hold everyting together. To create some texture measure and fit Paper deco onto the wings and tail. Spray mist the Paper Deco with water and tease it apart - don’t make it too wet.
I draped the chain in between and around the gears on the wings and also on the tail. Using Powertex Bronze to secure every piece on the wings and the tail. Then left it to dry completley.
I enjoy the Colourtrix metallic pigments so much and it’s always really hard to decide what colour scheme to use… I love the Colourtrix Magic Blue and used that as my base colour mixed with Easycoat mat and covered the whole Dragonfly with it. I then used Colourtrix Magic Purple to highligt some areas on the wings and tail. Colourtrix Bronze Gold and Clear Gold were used for the final touches.
Use Easycoat mat to glue the gemstones, eyes and clocks onto the wings and tail. Your Steampunk Dragonfly is now ready to hang it up where everybody will admire it.
This was so much fun and I love my end result!
This Steampunk Dragonfly project will allow you to make use of a variety of techniques using Powertex, Paper deco, Colourtrix and Easycoat Mat.
Join me on my creative journey with Powertex
Enjoy the ride
I was very excited when I received the Art Dolls as the next design challenge. For a while, I have been wanting to enlarge some of the recycled jewellery pieces I design to make them into wall art, so my mind leapt straight to that idea. An epiphany in the night made me think of the using Powertex Sand and Balls for the Red Queen’s hair and I knew I just had to go with one of my all-time favourite themes of Wonderland. I wanted to play with the juxtaposition of the youthful Alice fresh full of ideas that seem new and the older Red Queen seemingly more powerful but chained to time and her cage full of belongings. I also wanted my work to have an overall silver feel to symbolise a galvanised archetypal story but themed Alice in Pale Blue & Silver and the Red Queen in Red & Gold. They share the colours in their heart as there is a little bit of Alice and Queen in us all.
Step One - Design Layout
Step Two – Make Plaster Pieces
Step Three – Build the Red Queen’s Hair Form
Step Four – Seal the MDF Doll Pieces
Step Five – Make the Red Queen’s Hair
Step Six – Make Stone Art Clay
Step Seven – Create the Red Queen’s Bodice
Step Eight – Build the Box for behind the Red Queen’s Dress
Step Nine - Create Alice’s Dress and Attach Face and Hair
Step Ten – Colourtrix Red Queen and Alice Pieces
Step Eleven – Assemble Doll and Embellish with Found Objects or Jewellery
Step Twelve – Attach the Box Behind the Red Queen’s Dress.
Eventually, I will mount these onto a mirror – through the looking glass.
You could mount on a stand or attach a d-hook on the back as illustrated in my Boho Violin and Eostre Blogs and hang them on your wall.
I Hope you enjoy creating your own
Art Dolls. See you next time Natalie P.
Artwork & Blog post by Erika Venter, QLD
The theme for this month is Quintessentially Quirky and this gorgeous Art Doll kit is now available from Powertex Australia.
I had so much fun designing and creating this quirky Art Doll. This project took me back to my childhood when we used to play with paper dress-up dolls. Since this month is Mother’s Day, I thought that this could be a great gift if I made it functional! So, this is how I created a Quirky Art Doll Fridge magnet.
Choose your favourite Art Doll kit, select and trace the arms, body and wings (as pictured above) onto coloured paper. TIP: ensure the arms that the arms are around the right way when you trace them! Cut all body parts out and glue the paper pieces onto the Art Doll using Easycoat mat decoupage glue. Apply another layer of the Easycoat mat on top of the paper to seal. Put aside to dry.
Use cling wrap and cover the top and bottom part of the doll and leave the middle clear. Using pre-cut strips of Stockinette, dip them into the Powertex colour of your choice (I used Green) and massage the Powertex into the fabric… TIP: don’t soak it as you will waste the product and it will take too long to dry…. Drape it over the cling wrap by making sure it sticks onto the middle of the doll. Leave to dry (if you are in a hurry use a hairdryer to dry it more quickly). Paint the dolls’ hat or crowns with Powertex and leave to dry… I had this little hat in my stash!
Use the split pins and assemble the MDF doll. I also used Easycoat mat to glue the wings on to the back of the doll… you could use Powertex if you prefer.
I wanted to create the look of a Victorian lady, so I used an old necklace that I cut up into pieces for the hat, brooch and waistline. To glue all bits and pieces on I found it easier to use a hot glue gun which gave an instant stick. I folded the hat in half and glued it onto the front and back of the dolls’ head and then decorated the hat with a piece of the jewellery, feathers and a metal butterfly. I used some lace for the neckline, cuffs and middle and created a brooch with another piece of the jewellery and a feather. To finish off the dress I glued another piece of jewellery onto the waistline and a feather on both sides, then left it aside to dry.
Glue the magnets onto the back of the small canvas (as pictured above), then use a sponge to apply Powertex Ivory to the front of the canvas… remember to do the sides as well! Use a little bit of Powertex Green to dab onto the Ivory to create some shading… dark to light, from one corner to the next. Stick the notepad onto the darker corner of the canvas while its still wet. Apply Powertex Ivory onto the back of your quirky Art Doll and stick it onto the lighter side of the canvas and leave it to dry.
This Quintessentially Quirky gift will make any mother’s heart melt… so why wait.... create it for mum today!
This was so much fun and I love my end result!
This Quintessentially Quirky Art Doll will allow you to turn the clock back in time and give you many hours of fun as you let your imagination run wild to dress her up using Powertex and Mixed Media!
I look forward to seeing what you do with your Art Doll Kits!!!
Enjoy the ride
HAPPY MOTHER’S DAY
Artwork and Blog Post by Natalie Parish, QLD
Step One - Planning
This piece was ephemeral in its planning as I wanted it to flow from a concept rather than a design (this is how I often create… but things can get a bit messy). My concept was to explore the pagan roots of Easter by creating a piece in honour of Eostre the goddess of spring/dawn. Eostre also had to bear the cross of being punished for bringing the light to humankind. I decided I wanted to work in a colour I don’t usually use. As a result, you will see that during construction some pieces look almost finished whilst new bits are being added, while I got a feel for the piece. In retrospect, I probably could have assembled the piece all in white before spraying with Powertex Bister and Ranger Dylusion ink. Therefore, it is worthwhile reading the entire blog through before beginning and you may choose to use completely different colours and embellishments. Happy creating…
From your useful box
Step Two - Sealing
Step Three - Building Eostre’s arms
Step Four - Prepare Stone Art & 3D Flex
Step Five - Prepare your Bister
Step Six - Paper Decoration and Wings
Step Seven - Paper Decoration, dressing Eostre
Step Eight - Clay your Cross & Dusty Attic Wings
Step Nine - Mounting Eostre
Step Ten - Bister
Step Eleven - Powertex Flowers & Embellishments
Step Twelve - Lotus and Bister Cracking
Step Thirteen - High light in White
Step Fourteen - Transparent Powertex Lace Flowers and Stone Art Attachments
Congratulations your Goddess is complete!
I hope you enjoyed this project!
See you next time...
All materials available from
Powertex Australia or Bagend Studio
Artwork & Blog post by Erika Venter, QLD
This month’s theme is Easter Inspiration and our kit of the month is a Celtic Cross with wings. I was so excited when I received the kit because Easter and a Cross just go together so well, and my mind ran away with all sorts of ideas!
Before I started the project, I asked the Question:
"What is the meaning of the Celtic Cross?"
The Celtic Cross is a symbol used today in many contexts, both religious and secular. The Celtic Cross is like a traditional cross but with a ring around the intersection of the stem and arms. The whole cross is often decorated with ornate Gaelic patterns. Sometimes the Celtic cross is set on a tall base to resemble more closely the traditional Christian cross, and at other times the symbol stands alone. The Celtic cross is sometimes nothing more than a simple “stick” drawing on a gravestone or at a religious site; other times it is sculpted and quite ornate. The Celtic cross is also called the “sun cross” by some who interpret the ring to represent the sun.
I liked the idea of setting the cross on a tall base but then I thought a canvas will do nicely because it would be something to hang on my wall that I could look at it every day. So, this how I designed my Celtic Cross….
Draw a cross onto the Styrofoam - a bit bigger than the MDF cross in the kit - then cut it out using the Stanley knife. Remove the top layer and sides from the Styrofoam (scouring it with your fingers or a serrated knife)… it may be messy, so its handy to have a portable vacuum close by!
I wasn’t sure what colour to do the cross and wings so I painted them blue on one side and Ivory on the other, then let them dry. Paint the canvas blue using a roller (it’s much easier to use a roller for a bigger surface and you will use less Powertex) Use a bigger paint brush and apply Powertex Ivory over the blue – allowing some of the blue to still come through. Place the Styrofoam cross in the centre of the canvas and stick it on using Powertex Transparent.
Cut the Paperdeco into two pieces the same size as the Styrofoam cross. Wet the paper deco with a bit off water and stretched it so that it fit over the cross. Apply a layer of Powertex Transparent onto the Styrofoam and then place the Paperdeco onto the cross, applying another layer of Transparent ove.r it so that it sticks. Let it touch dry. TIP: it’s always handy to have a hairdryer in reach if you’re in a hurry
Mix some3DFlex with Powertex Ivory until you get a paste, add it to the bottom of the canvas to create texture and then use 3D sand and balls to create more interest. Spray the 3Dflex with Blue Bister to greater a cloud effect.
Apply Colourtrix Blue, Bronze Gold and Gold using Easycoat mat onto the Paperdeco to create a bark effect. It looks really good with the Powertex blue in the background.
I was still not sure whether to use the Blue or White for the cross and wings, so in the meantime, I mixed 3DFlex and Powertex Ivory to create more texture on the bottom and then sprinkled some of the sand over it. I sprayed Bister Natural Brown over the 3Dflex while it was still wet. Then I left it outside to dry and start a crackle effect. TIP: if you use too much Bister you can just wipe some off with a damp cloth until you reach the desired colour.
Finally, I made up my mind to go with the Ivory side of the Wings and Cross. I had an idea to make the wings look like there were feathers on it and to make the look rusty. To do this, mix Powertex Ivory with 3D sand and rusty powder until it goes a dark grey colour, then use a spatula and apply it to the cross. Spray 50% vinegar and water mix over it and allow to dry. Repeat the vinegar application at least 3 times. This won’t rust immediately - it will happen overnight. Set it aside.
For the wings you need to mix Powertex Ivory with 3DFlex powder until you get a runny mix. Use a spatula and apply it on to the tips of the wings and leave it to dry.
Decide where to position the wings and cross, then use Powertex Transparent to glue them on. To finished off the Celtic cross you can decorate it with rhinestones or just use Colourtrix for embellishments. I used Colourtrix Clear Gold on the wings and the cross. You can use the same Colourtrix for the 3D Sand and Balls on the bottom of the canvas, which just makes them stand out more.
When I stood, I decided to change the brown earth look to a much lighter sky and cloud effect and this is how I changed it…. I used Powertex Ivory and painted over the brown at the bottom of the canvas. I then used Powertex Blue with my big paintbrush to create a cloud. This was the best decision I made because my Celtic Cross just came alive and I was so happy!!!
I am glad I first decided to go with the earth effect because this gives you two different ways to create your Celtic Cross.
This was so much fun and I loved my end result!
This Celtic Cross with Wings project will allow you to make use of a variety of techniques using Powertex, 3DFlex, Bister, Easycoat Mat and 3 Colourtrix colours.
Join me on my creative journey with Powertex
Enjoy the ride
Artwork & Blog post by Renee' Warwick WA
Hi to all our Powertex Addicts! Here we are again with this month’s Inspirational Theme: Music Magic!!! When Ashley gave me my Designer kit my heart was singing and I couldn’t wait to go and start creating an altered violin… Music’s in the air for sure...
How did you go with last month’s theme? Did you have as much fun as I did?
Now you can have some more....
Materials that I used were:
Let the fun begin
Firstly, get some music going, remember I’m an 80’s gal so I like to ‘She Bop’ as I go about getting everything prepped to go... don’t forget to chill your refreshment’s or put a brew on... it’s all about enjoying your creative journey. Next prep your area by covering your work surface in some plastic, get all your bits and bobs out and lastly don’t forget your warm soapy water and a jar with water to rinse your paintbrushes, unless of course you would like to add these to your art work (remember Powertex will harden anything when dried) … Could be pretty cool.! Hmmm maybe later I will do a tutorial in this for you.
Shake and stir your Powertex and pour a small amount of Bronze into a plastic cup (cover with plastic wrap till ready to use), then do the same with the Ivory.
Ok now it’s time to carefully push out all your Dusty attic chippy pieces & the violin bits. A little word of advice if you are having trouble getting these pieces out of the framework carefully use the blade of the Stanley knife to loosen some of the joints. Lay the violin pieces down on top of one another with the large piece as your base, then then smaller violin shape on top of that, then the neck of the violin. I always like to then lay all my pieces out and plan the design before I start. Taking a picture at this stage on your phone helps for later.
Take the smaller shapes of the violin and place them on top of your Styrofoam and trace around the outside of the shape. Then cut this out either with your hot knife or the blade of a Stanley knife (if using a knife please ensure that you have a cutting board under your work and keep fingers clear of the blade). This will give you a more 3-Dimensional look to your altered violin, you can leave this stage out if you wish. (keep your off cuts of the Styrofoam for a later stage).
Take the larger violin shape and paint the whole surface with Bronze Powertex then paint the surface of the Styrofoam and place this on top of the large violin shape. Make sure that it is positioned well into the middle & adjust where necessary as the Powertex when dry will adhere these pieces together… paint the top of the Styrofoam and the underside of the smaller of the violin shape with Bronze Powertex and place these together. Then paint the Bronze all around the sides of the altered violin including the Styrofoam if you used it in the middle.
Paint the top of the altered violin with Ivory Powertex taking care not to drip it down the sides, allow this to dry. Also paint the long neck of the violin with Ivory too… While this is drying it’s a great time to check on those tunes and make a coffee or depending on the time of day open something more refreshing… Ah yes wine, it never goes astray…
Now we’re going to do something very tricky, Decoupaging. If you have serviette that you’d like to use (I used one that my mum had given me for my stash – got to love your mum), please pull apart the layers so that you are left with only the top printed layer of the serviette (generally they have 3 layers). If you don’t have a serviette, Powertex also have a lovely range of silk papers and the vintage postal one would be great for this. If using our silk paper, you will use it as is as there are no extra layers to worry about, ahhh how good is that. Place the printed paper over the top of the violin (you can see in my pic that it doesn’t cover the length don’t worry tear and add to it as we go), pour a little Easycoat Glossy or Matt onto your alfoil palette and with a flat paint brush, load the brush with the Easycoat and then apply liberally over the surface of the paper starting from the middle and work your way out towards the edges. Pay particular care around the edges and the violin’s cut outs - ensure, in these areas, that you run the brush gently around and it should start dissolving away for you making it easy for you to remove the bits… If you weren’t able to cover the neck of the violin remember I said earlier that we can add this after, well now we go back and use what is left of our paper and do the same. Now allow this to dry. Woo hoo another break but remember to clean as you go and that means your brushes too.
,Distressing the edges – You will need a small sponge and dip lightly into the Ivory Powertex and rub around the edges so it starts to look rubbed out. Just lightly don’t over do it
Okay now let’s get our 3rd piece that we have been waiting eagerly to add so that our violin can make music to our eye’s. Thank you for being patient. Now to give it a more 3-Dimensional look, like the body of the violin, we will cut 3 small rectangular pieces from the off cuts of the Styrofoam and using the Ivory Powertex paint these pieces and add them to the underside of the long string MDF piece. Before turning it over and putting it into place ensure that you paint some ivory on these 3 Styrofoam pieces so that it will adhere to the surface of the violin, with a gentle but firm hand put in place. Note- I put these 3 pieces one near the top, one near the middle and the other near the tip.
Let’s have some fun now with your chosen embellishments for your altered violin. Lay your elements around the top of the violin to see if you’re still happy with your design. This is where you can tweak your design and go as crazy as you like. TIP – I cut apart my DA Floral Fantasy piece into pieces (visible in the picture) and positioned these nicely around so it looks like it’s wrapping around the surface of the violin then positioned my paper flowers
NOTE - I felt my piece needed another element of interest so I added 2 little pieces of Hessian
Paint all the tops of your Dusty Attic pieces, flowers and hessian in Ivory Powertex and leave to dry. The first pieces to lay down will be the hessian so cover the back of this with the Ivory and put some Ivory Powertex on the violin where you would like these pieces to be and lay them in place. Next, paint the backs of the DA Floral Fantasy piece by piece and lay each down while the Powertex is still wet on the back. Finally, and I’m sure you guessed it, do the same with your paper flowers.... I was really excited at this stage, I hope that you are too!
Putting on the Ritz /Glitz... oops sorry the Grunge. Get your alfoil pallet ready put 2 small scoops of easy structure on this. In the first pile of easy structure add a teaspoon of 3D Sand & Small Balls and enough Rusty Powder when mixed with your pallet knife that it looks dark grey. Using your pallet knife scrape portions of this around the neck and top of the violin – refer to pic. While this is still wet add some of your larger 3D Balls pushing them gently into the paste. Now spritz these area’s generously with your vinegar spray. Add your blue after the 1st spray of vinegar is dry. NOTE - You will need to spray your rusty areas about 3-4 times initially as this is what activates the rusty powder to become Rust. I highly recommend watching Ashley’s YouTube video: How to Use Rusty Powder ... click here
Now with the 2nd small amount of easy structure add the 3D Sand and 3D Small Balls and Dark Blue Powercolour, mix well. Again, add this around your violin. This does not need to be spritzed with the vinegar but it won’t hurt it if you get it on this surface while spraying your Rusty surface.
Now we can have some fun with your Bister Spray. I used Original Liquid Bister - it’s my go to colour in the range. Now you can go silly with the spray cover all your ivory surfaces and embellishments. To get it to crackle, use your hairdryer on hot and go over all the areas of Bister - not too close or you’ll be decorating your walls with your spray. I was lucky it was super-hot here in WA and when I put it out in the sun to dry it did it’s magic…
Leave overnight before embellishing the edges with your Colourtrix.
Time to sit back and relax and admire your beautiful piece, tomorrow I assure you it will look amazing... not that it doesn’t already, right?
Hmm mm was I right? Is it amazing? One last thing to do oops sorry I lied 2…
With your Bronze Gold Colourtrix and Easycoat Glossy you need to dry bush around the sides - I LOVED my rust and crackle effects so much that I chose not to go over these areas with any colourtrix. Also don’t forget to paint the back with Bronze Powertex, this is not necessary if you are going to frame it.
How mesmerising is your piece? I’m sure it has the WOW factor!!! I love, love, LOVE mine and I hope that I have inspired and helped you on your creative journey in feeling the same about your piece...
I thank you for taking the time to read my blog for the Powertex Australia Design Team and please don’t forget to post your creation onto our Facebook Group for all of us to see and admire… (click here to join) If you aren't on Facebook you can email your images to Powertex and we will post them for you (email). All the materials that I design with are readily available through Powertex Australia https://www.powertex.com.au/
I look forward to sharing more hints and tips with you all next month & oooo next month is soooooo exciting I can’t wait to share my design with you.
Until then Cheers to you all...
Your Friendly Neighbourhood Powertex Fanatic
RenWA ( Renee’ Warwick)
Artwork & Blog post by Erika Venter Qld
This month’s theme is Music Magic and I was super exited to start the Altered Violin project! (a kit now available from Powertex Australia). I had no idea what I wanted to create but then the song came to mind “My heart will go on” and the ideas just started flowing! I grabbed bits and pieces from my studio and started playing around with them until I had the perfect picture.
· Altered Violin kit
· Powertex black, 3DFlex, Bister, Colourtrix Blue Lustre, Copper and Rich Gold
· Plastic Container covered with a plastic bag, paint brush
· Flowers, chipboard music notes & key
· Craft paper, Marking pen & scissors
Trace the top section of the MDF Violin onto the Styrofoam and then use the off cuts to create additional shapes for the fingerboard (as pictured above). I didn't want to use the back of the Violin fingerboard, so I cut it off. Use the MDF shapes as a template to trace & cut out the craft paper and then use a styrofoam hot tool or scroll saw to cut your Styrofoam (as pictured above).
Stir your Black Powertex & then pour it into a plastic container. Paint the top of the Styrofoam and place the MDF front section on it. Do the same with the back. Paint the inside of the stem and stick the Styrofoam pieces on. Paint the sides of the Violin and the fingerboard pieces. Leave to dry.
Trace and cut out some corrugated cardboard for the front fingerboard to create the illusion of string on the Violin. Paint this with Powertex black and stick it on.
Paint the rest of the Violin and set aside to dry.
To create a nice texture on the side of the violin, mix Powertex and 3DFlex to make a soft clay. Then use pieces of clay to cover the side and the little front piece as well. You can also press stencils into the clay for more texture. Spray Bister on the clay and place in the sun to start a crackle effect.
The same procedure can be used for the Violin fingerboard. Mould the clay around the base and the side. Spray with Bister and place in the sun.
It’s now time to glue the craft paper cut-out to the front of the Violin. Apply Easycoat mat onto the Violin and place the cut out over the top. Use a damp cloth to remove any air bubbles. Apply another layer over the top to secure the paper and prevent it from lifting.
Paint Powertex onto the back of the fingerboard & position it onto the top of the Violin.
Mould 3DFlex clay around the scroll until you're happy with the shape and then use a skewer to make a pattern on both sides. Secure it onto the fingerboard by painting Powertex onto the back and front. Use more 3DFlex clay and mould the two pieces together. I folded some cling wrap into a small strip and wrapped it tightly around the attached pieces and left it overnight to ensure it all held together properly.
Pour some Powertex into the left over clay and use a spatula to make a runny mix, then drizzle it onto the rim and Violin to create some texture. Leave it outside in the sun to dry. Dry-brushing the texture with Colourtrix Blue Lustre, Copper and Rich Gold mixed with Easycoat mat to create your desired look. Repeat the process on the fingerboard & scroll.
Paint Easycoat Mat onto the back and stick cutout to the Violin. Use a damp cloth to remove any air bubbles. Paint another layer over the back of the Violin to prevent paper from lifting and leave to dry.
Paint your flowers, leaves, musical notes and keys with Powertex and begin to decorate your Violin. TIP: use Easycoat mat to glue all the pieces onto the Violin. Embellish the flowers with Colourtrix Blue Lustre, Copper and Rich Gold mixed with Easycoat mat (I used Gold for the notes). To finish off your Altered Violin, tie some string around the scroll where the fingerboard begins.
This was so much fun and I loved my end result!
This Altered Violin project will allow you to make use of a variety of techniques using Powertex , 3DFlex, Bister, Easycoat Mat and 3 Colourtrix colours.
I hope you have just as much fun as I did!
Enjoy the ride
Artwork & Blog post by Natalie Parish QLD
Step 1 - Design Layout
Lay out pieces to test design ideas and collect all the required materials. I usually have a skeleton plan and I am happy to abandon materials or find new ones as the art piece develops.
Step 2 - Background & Sealing Layer
Open your Blue & Ivory Powertex & stir well before use. Then put the lids back on and shake well. Use recycled plastic lids as palettes and pour two circles of each colour. On your third lid, blend the colours to make your desired colour blue and paint all sides of your Violin Cut Out to seal and waterproof the MDF. This is just the background to your work, so slight variations in thickness or colour will either be covered by additional layers or provide interest later.
Step 3 - Decoupage
Tear your silk/decoupage paper to your liking and using a paint brush and Easy Coat Matt or Glossy, decoupage sections of your Violin MDF Cut.
Step 4 - Stencilling
Open the Easy Structure and collect a small amount on your palette knife and spread evenly over your stencil of choice. Easy Structure is a high quality texture paste that dries firmly and reasonably quickly. Remember to cover your container with gladwrap and put the lid back on firmly in between each stencil. TIP: Clean your stencils immediately after each application while it is still easy to remove the structure paste.
Step 5 - Designer Chipboard
Confirm where you would like to place your choice of Dusty Attic designer chipboard. Chipboards can be cut to your desire too. Once wet with Powertex they can also be spread apart or curved. Paint all the front sides with Blue or Ivory Powertex fabric hardener. As you paint each back side place it into position and leave to dry and harden into place. Colour stencil design if it will be covered by chipboard by dry brushing with a very small quantity of Easy Coat Glossy and Powercolours, which can be mixed together to create tonal variations. If you wish to blend your designer chipboard into the MDF, cover with a small layer of Stone Art and rub it into the join. Repaint with powertex fabric hardener to create a small layer of clay that can be manipulated further with a gloved hand.
Step 6 - Bister and Powercolours
Pour Bister into a mist spray bottle and spray stencil work where depth or a tea stain look is desired. Dab with a wet chux to smudge or lighten. NB. Bister also comes in colours such as the blue used here. Pour a small amount of Easy Coat Varnish into a lid/palette. Put out the Powercolour pigments of your choice. With a very dry brush, take up a small amount of varnish into the brush tips and criss cross your brush before picking up the pigment colours or blends. Criss cross your brush to create your paint. Apply as desired. NB. This process may take a couple of layers and different applications of powercolours and Bister as well as wiping on and off.
Step 7 - Rust (Optional) & Repeat Step 6
Pour a small amount of Ivory Powertex onto a lid with some sand and small balls. Put out some Rusty Powder and stir together to make a slurry. Spray the slurry with vinegar to make the rusty powder react. Keep adding sand and balls and rusty powder to make the slurry thick. The reaction could take an hour or two to begin as it changes from grey to brown rust. Spread the mixture in the desired areas, spray again with vinegar and leave to react. Overnight is best as it will react more and be dry enough to repeat Step 6 to blend your work again with Bisters and Powercolour. TIP: Watch video on How to use Rusty Powder... click here
Step 8 - Prepare Stone Art
In this project, Stone Art is primarily used for adhesion. Firstly, for the flowers and later to assemble the entire piece together. In a bowl with a small amount of blue Powertex fabric hardener (1/4 of a cup) add Stone Art (1/4 of a cup) and mix with a flat spatula. Keep adding small handfuls of Stone Art until it forms a kneadable dough like mixture that no longer sticks to the bowl or your gloves. Remove the sticky ball and add a little more Stone Art to the bowl to “flour” the ball. Knead until the clay can be pushed into a textured surface and be removed again without sticking. Remove a small ball of clay and wrap tightly in gladwrap ready to place flowers. Wrap the larger ball in glad wrap followed by a wet chux and then pop it in an airtight container for later.
Step 9 - Flower
Stir, shake and then pour a small amount of Ivory Powertex fabric Hardener in a bowl. Dip artificial flower into bowl and massage the Powertex in using gloved hand. Place the small ball of clay where the flower will be positioned and carefully center the flower
into the clay and push it in with a skewer. Use Bister (blue, natural) whilst wet and hair
dry carefully if you desire a crackle finish and Powercolours (when dry) to blend into the piece. For Paper Flowers, Powertex the backs, position without stone Art and paint the front. They will stick faster.
Step 10 - Attach Hooks
Decide which direction your piece will hang as vertically may require 1 hook. With the pre-made Stone Art clay create two squares and lay the base of the hook into the it. Press down to secure and cover the base with clay making sure the hook can swing free. Add additional balls at the base to enable piece to lay flat against the wall.
Step 11 - Colourtrix. Optional Metallic Sheen
If desired, dry brush Colourtrix Pigments such as Bronze Gold, Powerpearl, Copper and Blue Lustre into your work to create a metallic tinge using the same technique for Powercolour in Step 6.
Step 12 - Assemble with Stone Art.
Roll a sausage of the pre-made clay and cut into 7 even logs. Wrap in gladwrap to prevent hardening until you are ready to use. These will form the pillars to hold up the different layers of the violin. Lay pieces in position before assembling so you know where to position the pillars. Work from top to bottom. Pour a small amount of Transparent Powertex into a lid/pallet. Shape each pillar by broadening the bases and tops to increase surface area. Pour a small amount of Transparent Powertex onto a lid/palette and dab the base of each pillar into it before placing onto the violin to increase adhesion. Press down lightly on each pillar point and leave for an hour or two to dry slightly before doing the final layer in the same way. A hairdryer will speed up the process. It will dry hard overnight but fully cure in 3 weeks. Integrate pillars into work using Powercolours and Colourtrix. You can also spray D Hooks with Bister and colour the back of your work to finish off your pieces fully.
I hope you enjoyed this project!
See you next time...
Artwork & Blogpost by Renee Warwick, WA
Hi to all our Powertex Australia Addicts!!! This month’s Inspirational Theme is Cupids Lane... I am hoping that you have been feeling the love and if not, I am sure that you will after joining me in creating my Designer ‘Love at First Site’ memory box…
Materials I used were:
Tools required –
Let the Fun Begin!
First get some music going, I like to put some classic 80’s hits on. Next prep your area by covering your work surface in some plastic, get all your bits and bobs out and lastly don’t forget your warm soapy water to rinse your paintbrush, unless of course you would like to add these to your art work (remember Powertex will harden anything when dried) … Could be pretty cool.! Shake and stir your Powertex and pour a small amount of Bronze into a plastic cup (cover with plastic wrap until ready to use), then do the same with the Black. If you don’t already have some Stoneart Clay made, please do so, then wrap the clay into the damp chux and store it in a Ziplock bag for later use.
Ok now it’s time to carefully push out all your Dusty Attic chippy pieces. A little word of advice if you are having trouble getting these pieces out of the framework carefully use the blade of the Stanley knife to loosen some of the joints. Lay your pieces out and plan the design for the front of your memory box. Tip- taking a picture at this stage on your phone helps for later. Paint the front of all your pieces in Bronze Powertex (leave to dry). Cigar Box – Carefully assemble this together taking note of the top bottom and sides. Open your lid and lay this flat so you see the inside of the lid then run masking tape along the bends of the lid and also go around all of the framework of the sides this will strengthen your box and also save some frustration as you create … Yes, I learnt this the hard way my lid broke on my 1st attempt & my sides kept coming apart until the Powertex had dried, hmmm oh dear… That didn’t deter me and nor should it you… Now close the lid and you will need to run masking tape over the joins of the lid while it’s closed … Smooth the masking tape down well so that it’s adhered in all spots…
Now we can have some fun with our Easy Structure… Use a piece of alfoil folded in half as a pallet. Scoop a little easy structure onto this pallet add some 3D sand and small 3D Balls to this (you don’t need to but the texture that it adds is incredible, you will thank me for this tip). Mix well. Lay your Brick wall stencil on the top of the box, using your pallet knife pick up some structure paste and scrape this randomly over the stencil, it doesn’t matter if you don’t get it even or bits are missed look at my picture it really adds to the overall look when completed. Allow this to dry.
Go back to your painted DA Chippy’s they should now be dry. Now turn them all over and paint all the back with the Bronze Powertex and allow to dry.
Go and check on your stencilled box… If it's dry we are now going to stencil the inside of the lid to give it some bling with our Heart Attack stencil, doing the same as before… then paint the inside of the Box NOTE – don’t paint where you have just stencilled. When painting the black Powertex onto the inside of the box take care to coat the inside edges, etc... and slightly lift the frame to get some Powertex under this so that when it dries it will adhere together. Yes, again more drying time (make a coffee or have a wine).
Now I like to embellish my pieces before sticking them onto my box… This is where you can have some creative fun with your choice of the beautiful Colourtrix metallic pigments… I like to dry brush & layer Paris Green, Magic Blue, Magic Purple, Copper and Bronze gold with Easy Coat Glossy onto all my cogs giving them a metallic rusty look… For My Sweet Heart Shape, I only used the outer part of the heart (I am saving the rest for another project so stay tuned). On this heart I used Powercolour Turquoise and Moss Green. Each of these colours I mixed into a little easy structure with the 3d sand… (Wow I am giving up all my secrets can’t blame the wine either just excited for my 1st blog) then using a stencil brush stomped this coloured easy structure around the surface. Note - if you feel the Turquoise is too dark add little Titanium White to it… Let this dry, then dry brush Bronze Gold over the surface.
Back to the memory box. Now paint all the outer parts of the box in Black, pay particular attention to the stencilled area getting into all the little nooks and crannies. Allow this to dry… Then go over all the inside of the box including the stencilled heart area. Again, allow to dry. Note - do not close at this stage while drying as the lid will stick together.When dry place a bit of plastic wrap around the inside of the box because although it feels dry it will still have a tendency to stick and the plastic wrap will stop this from happening and allow you to finish the top of the lid
Yay we are nearly there…
Now get all your coloured DA Chippy’s and start laying out the design on your lid - remember you took a photo... so refer back to this, if you need to. Remember mine is an inspirational piece for you to get ideas, so let your imagination run wild with your design. Also, I did cut up one of my industrial corner cog pieces into usable pieces and placed these around. Note - any cut edges I touched up with some Bronze Powertex to hide the Cut edges.
Now stick down your pieces by painting the backs and putting them onto your lid. To get height that’s where I used my stone art clay under my cogs etc. Remember when using the stone art clay, you must put some wet Powertex between the surfaces.. so that it is going to hold in place.
I hope that you enjoyed all my hints and tips and that they assist you in your Creative Journey with Powertex. Remember, all the materials you need for this project are available from Powertex Australia.
I thank you for taking the time to read my first blog for the Powertex Australia Design Team and please don’t forget to post your creation in our Facebook Group for all of us to see and admire!
I look forward to sharing more hints and tips with you all next month... Cheers to you all... Your Friendly Neighbourhood Powertex Fanatic...
RenWA ( Renee’)
Ashley Hay is an artist and the Importer of Powertex for Australia. Ashley has become a great advocate for this amazing product and wishes to share her excitement about the versatility of Powertex with others.