Artwork & Blog post by Renee' Warwick WA
Hi to all our Powertex Addicts! Here we are again with this month’s Inspirational Theme: Music Magic!!! When Ashley gave me my Designer kit my heart was singing and I couldn’t wait to go and start creating an altered violin… Music’s in the air for sure...
How did you go with last month’s theme? Did you have as much fun as I did?
Now you can have some more....
Materials that I used were:
Let the fun begin
Firstly, get some music going, remember I’m an 80’s gal so I like to ‘She Bop’ as I go about getting everything prepped to go... don’t forget to chill your refreshment’s or put a brew on... it’s all about enjoying your creative journey. Next prep your area by covering your work surface in some plastic, get all your bits and bobs out and lastly don’t forget your warm soapy water and a jar with water to rinse your paintbrushes, unless of course you would like to add these to your art work (remember Powertex will harden anything when dried) … Could be pretty cool.! Hmmm maybe later I will do a tutorial in this for you.
Shake and stir your Powertex and pour a small amount of Bronze into a plastic cup (cover with plastic wrap till ready to use), then do the same with the Ivory.
Ok now it’s time to carefully push out all your Dusty attic chippy pieces & the violin bits. A little word of advice if you are having trouble getting these pieces out of the framework carefully use the blade of the Stanley knife to loosen some of the joints. Lay the violin pieces down on top of one another with the large piece as your base, then then smaller violin shape on top of that, then the neck of the violin. I always like to then lay all my pieces out and plan the design before I start. Taking a picture at this stage on your phone helps for later.
Take the smaller shapes of the violin and place them on top of your Styrofoam and trace around the outside of the shape. Then cut this out either with your hot knife or the blade of a Stanley knife (if using a knife please ensure that you have a cutting board under your work and keep fingers clear of the blade). This will give you a more 3-Dimensional look to your altered violin, you can leave this stage out if you wish. (keep your off cuts of the Styrofoam for a later stage).
Take the larger violin shape and paint the whole surface with Bronze Powertex then paint the surface of the Styrofoam and place this on top of the large violin shape. Make sure that it is positioned well into the middle & adjust where necessary as the Powertex when dry will adhere these pieces together… paint the top of the Styrofoam and the underside of the smaller of the violin shape with Bronze Powertex and place these together. Then paint the Bronze all around the sides of the altered violin including the Styrofoam if you used it in the middle.
Paint the top of the altered violin with Ivory Powertex taking care not to drip it down the sides, allow this to dry. Also paint the long neck of the violin with Ivory too… While this is drying it’s a great time to check on those tunes and make a coffee or depending on the time of day open something more refreshing… Ah yes wine, it never goes astray…
Now we’re going to do something very tricky, Decoupaging. If you have serviette that you’d like to use (I used one that my mum had given me for my stash – got to love your mum), please pull apart the layers so that you are left with only the top printed layer of the serviette (generally they have 3 layers). If you don’t have a serviette, Powertex also have a lovely range of silk papers and the vintage postal one would be great for this. If using our silk paper, you will use it as is as there are no extra layers to worry about, ahhh how good is that. Place the printed paper over the top of the violin (you can see in my pic that it doesn’t cover the length don’t worry tear and add to it as we go), pour a little Easycoat Glossy or Matt onto your alfoil palette and with a flat paint brush, load the brush with the Easycoat and then apply liberally over the surface of the paper starting from the middle and work your way out towards the edges. Pay particular care around the edges and the violin’s cut outs - ensure, in these areas, that you run the brush gently around and it should start dissolving away for you making it easy for you to remove the bits… If you weren’t able to cover the neck of the violin remember I said earlier that we can add this after, well now we go back and use what is left of our paper and do the same. Now allow this to dry. Woo hoo another break but remember to clean as you go and that means your brushes too.
,Distressing the edges – You will need a small sponge and dip lightly into the Ivory Powertex and rub around the edges so it starts to look rubbed out. Just lightly don’t over do it
Okay now let’s get our 3rd piece that we have been waiting eagerly to add so that our violin can make music to our eye’s. Thank you for being patient. Now to give it a more 3-Dimensional look, like the body of the violin, we will cut 3 small rectangular pieces from the off cuts of the Styrofoam and using the Ivory Powertex paint these pieces and add them to the underside of the long string MDF piece. Before turning it over and putting it into place ensure that you paint some ivory on these 3 Styrofoam pieces so that it will adhere to the surface of the violin, with a gentle but firm hand put in place. Note- I put these 3 pieces one near the top, one near the middle and the other near the tip.
Let’s have some fun now with your chosen embellishments for your altered violin. Lay your elements around the top of the violin to see if you’re still happy with your design. This is where you can tweak your design and go as crazy as you like. TIP – I cut apart my DA Floral Fantasy piece into pieces (visible in the picture) and positioned these nicely around so it looks like it’s wrapping around the surface of the violin then positioned my paper flowers
NOTE - I felt my piece needed another element of interest so I added 2 little pieces of Hessian
Paint all the tops of your Dusty Attic pieces, flowers and hessian in Ivory Powertex and leave to dry. The first pieces to lay down will be the hessian so cover the back of this with the Ivory and put some Ivory Powertex on the violin where you would like these pieces to be and lay them in place. Next, paint the backs of the DA Floral Fantasy piece by piece and lay each down while the Powertex is still wet on the back. Finally, and I’m sure you guessed it, do the same with your paper flowers.... I was really excited at this stage, I hope that you are too!
Putting on the Ritz /Glitz... oops sorry the Grunge. Get your alfoil pallet ready put 2 small scoops of easy structure on this. In the first pile of easy structure add a teaspoon of 3D Sand & Small Balls and enough Rusty Powder when mixed with your pallet knife that it looks dark grey. Using your pallet knife scrape portions of this around the neck and top of the violin – refer to pic. While this is still wet add some of your larger 3D Balls pushing them gently into the paste. Now spritz these area’s generously with your vinegar spray. Add your blue after the 1st spray of vinegar is dry. NOTE - You will need to spray your rusty areas about 3-4 times initially as this is what activates the rusty powder to become Rust. I highly recommend watching Ashley’s YouTube video: How to Use Rusty Powder ... click here
Now with the 2nd small amount of easy structure add the 3D Sand and 3D Small Balls and Dark Blue Powercolour, mix well. Again, add this around your violin. This does not need to be spritzed with the vinegar but it won’t hurt it if you get it on this surface while spraying your Rusty surface.
Now we can have some fun with your Bister Spray. I used Original Liquid Bister - it’s my go to colour in the range. Now you can go silly with the spray cover all your ivory surfaces and embellishments. To get it to crackle, use your hairdryer on hot and go over all the areas of Bister - not too close or you’ll be decorating your walls with your spray. I was lucky it was super-hot here in WA and when I put it out in the sun to dry it did it’s magic…
Leave overnight before embellishing the edges with your Colourtrix.
Time to sit back and relax and admire your beautiful piece, tomorrow I assure you it will look amazing... not that it doesn’t already, right?
Hmm mm was I right? Is it amazing? One last thing to do oops sorry I lied 2…
With your Bronze Gold Colourtrix and Easycoat Glossy you need to dry bush around the sides - I LOVED my rust and crackle effects so much that I chose not to go over these areas with any colourtrix. Also don’t forget to paint the back with Bronze Powertex, this is not necessary if you are going to frame it.
How mesmerising is your piece? I’m sure it has the WOW factor!!! I love, love, LOVE mine and I hope that I have inspired and helped you on your creative journey in feeling the same about your piece...
I thank you for taking the time to read my blog for the Powertex Australia Design Team and please don’t forget to post your creation onto our Facebook Group for all of us to see and admire… (click here to join) If you aren't on Facebook you can email your images to Powertex and we will post them for you (email). All the materials that I design with are readily available through Powertex Australia https://www.powertex.com.au/
I look forward to sharing more hints and tips with you all next month & oooo next month is soooooo exciting I can’t wait to share my design with you.
Until then Cheers to you all...
Your Friendly Neighbourhood Powertex Fanatic
RenWA ( Renee’ Warwick)
Artwork & Blog post by Erika Venter Qld
This month’s theme is Music Magic and I was super exited to start the Altered Violin project! (a kit now available from Powertex Australia). I had no idea what I wanted to create but then the song came to mind “My heart will go on” and the ideas just started flowing! I grabbed bits and pieces from my studio and started playing around with them until I had the perfect picture.
· Altered Violin kit
· Powertex black, 3DFlex, Bister, Colourtrix Blue Lustre, Copper and Rich Gold
· Plastic Container covered with a plastic bag, paint brush
· Flowers, chipboard music notes & key
· Craft paper, Marking pen & scissors
Trace the top section of the MDF Violin onto the Styrofoam and then use the off cuts to create additional shapes for the fingerboard (as pictured above). I didn't want to use the back of the Violin fingerboard, so I cut it off. Use the MDF shapes as a template to trace & cut out the craft paper and then use a styrofoam hot tool or scroll saw to cut your Styrofoam (as pictured above).
Stir your Black Powertex & then pour it into a plastic container. Paint the top of the Styrofoam and place the MDF front section on it. Do the same with the back. Paint the inside of the stem and stick the Styrofoam pieces on. Paint the sides of the Violin and the fingerboard pieces. Leave to dry.
Trace and cut out some corrugated cardboard for the front fingerboard to create the illusion of string on the Violin. Paint this with Powertex black and stick it on.
Paint the rest of the Violin and set aside to dry.
To create a nice texture on the side of the violin, mix Powertex and 3DFlex to make a soft clay. Then use pieces of clay to cover the side and the little front piece as well. You can also press stencils into the clay for more texture. Spray Bister on the clay and place in the sun to start a crackle effect.
The same procedure can be used for the Violin fingerboard. Mould the clay around the base and the side. Spray with Bister and place in the sun.
It’s now time to glue the craft paper cut-out to the front of the Violin. Apply Easycoat mat onto the Violin and place the cut out over the top. Use a damp cloth to remove any air bubbles. Apply another layer over the top to secure the paper and prevent it from lifting.
Paint Powertex onto the back of the fingerboard & position it onto the top of the Violin.
Mould 3DFlex clay around the scroll until you're happy with the shape and then use a skewer to make a pattern on both sides. Secure it onto the fingerboard by painting Powertex onto the back and front. Use more 3DFlex clay and mould the two pieces together. I folded some cling wrap into a small strip and wrapped it tightly around the attached pieces and left it overnight to ensure it all held together properly.
Pour some Powertex into the left over clay and use a spatula to make a runny mix, then drizzle it onto the rim and Violin to create some texture. Leave it outside in the sun to dry. Dry-brushing the texture with Colourtrix Blue Lustre, Copper and Rich Gold mixed with Easycoat mat to create your desired look. Repeat the process on the fingerboard & scroll.
Paint Easycoat Mat onto the back and stick cutout to the Violin. Use a damp cloth to remove any air bubbles. Paint another layer over the back of the Violin to prevent paper from lifting and leave to dry.
Paint your flowers, leaves, musical notes and keys with Powertex and begin to decorate your Violin. TIP: use Easycoat mat to glue all the pieces onto the Violin. Embellish the flowers with Colourtrix Blue Lustre, Copper and Rich Gold mixed with Easycoat mat (I used Gold for the notes). To finish off your Altered Violin, tie some string around the scroll where the fingerboard begins.
This was so much fun and I loved my end result!
This Altered Violin project will allow you to make use of a variety of techniques using Powertex , 3DFlex, Bister, Easycoat Mat and 3 Colourtrix colours.
I hope you have just as much fun as I did!
Enjoy the ride
Artwork & Blog post by Natalie Parish QLD
Step 1 - Design Layout
Lay out pieces to test design ideas and collect all the required materials. I usually have a skeleton plan and I am happy to abandon materials or find new ones as the art piece develops.
Step 2 - Background & Sealing Layer
Open your Blue & Ivory Powertex & stir well before use. Then put the lids back on and shake well. Use recycled plastic lids as palettes and pour two circles of each colour. On your third lid, blend the colours to make your desired colour blue and paint all sides of your Violin Cut Out to seal and waterproof the MDF. This is just the background to your work, so slight variations in thickness or colour will either be covered by additional layers or provide interest later.
Step 3 - Decoupage
Tear your silk/decoupage paper to your liking and using a paint brush and Easy Coat Matt or Glossy, decoupage sections of your Violin MDF Cut.
Step 4 - Stencilling
Open the Easy Structure and collect a small amount on your palette knife and spread evenly over your stencil of choice. Easy Structure is a high quality texture paste that dries firmly and reasonably quickly. Remember to cover your container with gladwrap and put the lid back on firmly in between each stencil. TIP: Clean your stencils immediately after each application while it is still easy to remove the structure paste.
Step 5 - Designer Chipboard
Confirm where you would like to place your choice of Dusty Attic designer chipboard. Chipboards can be cut to your desire too. Once wet with Powertex they can also be spread apart or curved. Paint all the front sides with Blue or Ivory Powertex fabric hardener. As you paint each back side place it into position and leave to dry and harden into place. Colour stencil design if it will be covered by chipboard by dry brushing with a very small quantity of Easy Coat Glossy and Powercolours, which can be mixed together to create tonal variations. If you wish to blend your designer chipboard into the MDF, cover with a small layer of Stone Art and rub it into the join. Repaint with powertex fabric hardener to create a small layer of clay that can be manipulated further with a gloved hand.
Step 6 - Bister and Powercolours
Pour Bister into a mist spray bottle and spray stencil work where depth or a tea stain look is desired. Dab with a wet chux to smudge or lighten. NB. Bister also comes in colours such as the blue used here. Pour a small amount of Easy Coat Varnish into a lid/palette. Put out the Powercolour pigments of your choice. With a very dry brush, take up a small amount of varnish into the brush tips and criss cross your brush before picking up the pigment colours or blends. Criss cross your brush to create your paint. Apply as desired. NB. This process may take a couple of layers and different applications of powercolours and Bister as well as wiping on and off.
Step 7 - Rust (Optional) & Repeat Step 6
Pour a small amount of Ivory Powertex onto a lid with some sand and small balls. Put out some Rusty Powder and stir together to make a slurry. Spray the slurry with vinegar to make the rusty powder react. Keep adding sand and balls and rusty powder to make the slurry thick. The reaction could take an hour or two to begin as it changes from grey to brown rust. Spread the mixture in the desired areas, spray again with vinegar and leave to react. Overnight is best as it will react more and be dry enough to repeat Step 6 to blend your work again with Bisters and Powercolour. TIP: Watch video on How to use Rusty Powder... click here
Step 8 - Prepare Stone Art
In this project, Stone Art is primarily used for adhesion. Firstly, for the flowers and later to assemble the entire piece together. In a bowl with a small amount of blue Powertex fabric hardener (1/4 of a cup) add Stone Art (1/4 of a cup) and mix with a flat spatula. Keep adding small handfuls of Stone Art until it forms a kneadable dough like mixture that no longer sticks to the bowl or your gloves. Remove the sticky ball and add a little more Stone Art to the bowl to “flour” the ball. Knead until the clay can be pushed into a textured surface and be removed again without sticking. Remove a small ball of clay and wrap tightly in gladwrap ready to place flowers. Wrap the larger ball in glad wrap followed by a wet chux and then pop it in an airtight container for later.
Step 9 - Flower
Stir, shake and then pour a small amount of Ivory Powertex fabric Hardener in a bowl. Dip artificial flower into bowl and massage the Powertex in using gloved hand. Place the small ball of clay where the flower will be positioned and carefully center the flower
into the clay and push it in with a skewer. Use Bister (blue, natural) whilst wet and hair
dry carefully if you desire a crackle finish and Powercolours (when dry) to blend into the piece. For Paper Flowers, Powertex the backs, position without stone Art and paint the front. They will stick faster.
Step 10 - Attach Hooks
Decide which direction your piece will hang as vertically may require 1 hook. With the pre-made Stone Art clay create two squares and lay the base of the hook into the it. Press down to secure and cover the base with clay making sure the hook can swing free. Add additional balls at the base to enable piece to lay flat against the wall.
Step 11 - Colourtrix. Optional Metallic Sheen
If desired, dry brush Colourtrix Pigments such as Bronze Gold, Powerpearl, Copper and Blue Lustre into your work to create a metallic tinge using the same technique for Powercolour in Step 6.
Step 12 - Assemble with Stone Art.
Roll a sausage of the pre-made clay and cut into 7 even logs. Wrap in gladwrap to prevent hardening until you are ready to use. These will form the pillars to hold up the different layers of the violin. Lay pieces in position before assembling so you know where to position the pillars. Work from top to bottom. Pour a small amount of Transparent Powertex into a lid/pallet. Shape each pillar by broadening the bases and tops to increase surface area. Pour a small amount of Transparent Powertex onto a lid/palette and dab the base of each pillar into it before placing onto the violin to increase adhesion. Press down lightly on each pillar point and leave for an hour or two to dry slightly before doing the final layer in the same way. A hairdryer will speed up the process. It will dry hard overnight but fully cure in 3 weeks. Integrate pillars into work using Powercolours and Colourtrix. You can also spray D Hooks with Bister and colour the back of your work to finish off your pieces fully.
I hope you enjoyed this project!
See you next time...
Artwork & Blogpost by Renee Warwick, WA
Hi to all our Powertex Australia Addicts!!! This month’s Inspirational Theme is Cupids Lane... I am hoping that you have been feeling the love and if not, I am sure that you will after joining me in creating my Designer ‘Love at First Site’ memory box…
Materials I used were:
Tools required –
Let the Fun Begin!
First get some music going, I like to put some classic 80’s hits on. Next prep your area by covering your work surface in some plastic, get all your bits and bobs out and lastly don’t forget your warm soapy water to rinse your paintbrush, unless of course you would like to add these to your art work (remember Powertex will harden anything when dried) … Could be pretty cool.! Shake and stir your Powertex and pour a small amount of Bronze into a plastic cup (cover with plastic wrap until ready to use), then do the same with the Black. If you don’t already have some Stoneart Clay made, please do so, then wrap the clay into the damp chux and store it in a Ziplock bag for later use.
Ok now it’s time to carefully push out all your Dusty Attic chippy pieces. A little word of advice if you are having trouble getting these pieces out of the framework carefully use the blade of the Stanley knife to loosen some of the joints. Lay your pieces out and plan the design for the front of your memory box. Tip- taking a picture at this stage on your phone helps for later. Paint the front of all your pieces in Bronze Powertex (leave to dry). Cigar Box – Carefully assemble this together taking note of the top bottom and sides. Open your lid and lay this flat so you see the inside of the lid then run masking tape along the bends of the lid and also go around all of the framework of the sides this will strengthen your box and also save some frustration as you create … Yes, I learnt this the hard way my lid broke on my 1st attempt & my sides kept coming apart until the Powertex had dried, hmmm oh dear… That didn’t deter me and nor should it you… Now close the lid and you will need to run masking tape over the joins of the lid while it’s closed … Smooth the masking tape down well so that it’s adhered in all spots…
Now we can have some fun with our Easy Structure… Use a piece of alfoil folded in half as a pallet. Scoop a little easy structure onto this pallet add some 3D sand and small 3D Balls to this (you don’t need to but the texture that it adds is incredible, you will thank me for this tip). Mix well. Lay your Brick wall stencil on the top of the box, using your pallet knife pick up some structure paste and scrape this randomly over the stencil, it doesn’t matter if you don’t get it even or bits are missed look at my picture it really adds to the overall look when completed. Allow this to dry.
Go back to your painted DA Chippy’s they should now be dry. Now turn them all over and paint all the back with the Bronze Powertex and allow to dry.
Go and check on your stencilled box… If it's dry we are now going to stencil the inside of the lid to give it some bling with our Heart Attack stencil, doing the same as before… then paint the inside of the Box NOTE – don’t paint where you have just stencilled. When painting the black Powertex onto the inside of the box take care to coat the inside edges, etc... and slightly lift the frame to get some Powertex under this so that when it dries it will adhere together. Yes, again more drying time (make a coffee or have a wine).
Now I like to embellish my pieces before sticking them onto my box… This is where you can have some creative fun with your choice of the beautiful Colourtrix metallic pigments… I like to dry brush & layer Paris Green, Magic Blue, Magic Purple, Copper and Bronze gold with Easy Coat Glossy onto all my cogs giving them a metallic rusty look… For My Sweet Heart Shape, I only used the outer part of the heart (I am saving the rest for another project so stay tuned). On this heart I used Powercolour Turquoise and Moss Green. Each of these colours I mixed into a little easy structure with the 3d sand… (Wow I am giving up all my secrets can’t blame the wine either just excited for my 1st blog) then using a stencil brush stomped this coloured easy structure around the surface. Note - if you feel the Turquoise is too dark add little Titanium White to it… Let this dry, then dry brush Bronze Gold over the surface.
Back to the memory box. Now paint all the outer parts of the box in Black, pay particular attention to the stencilled area getting into all the little nooks and crannies. Allow this to dry… Then go over all the inside of the box including the stencilled heart area. Again, allow to dry. Note - do not close at this stage while drying as the lid will stick together.When dry place a bit of plastic wrap around the inside of the box because although it feels dry it will still have a tendency to stick and the plastic wrap will stop this from happening and allow you to finish the top of the lid
Yay we are nearly there…
Now get all your coloured DA Chippy’s and start laying out the design on your lid - remember you took a photo... so refer back to this, if you need to. Remember mine is an inspirational piece for you to get ideas, so let your imagination run wild with your design. Also, I did cut up one of my industrial corner cog pieces into usable pieces and placed these around. Note - any cut edges I touched up with some Bronze Powertex to hide the Cut edges.
Now stick down your pieces by painting the backs and putting them onto your lid. To get height that’s where I used my stone art clay under my cogs etc. Remember when using the stone art clay, you must put some wet Powertex between the surfaces.. so that it is going to hold in place.
I hope that you enjoyed all my hints and tips and that they assist you in your Creative Journey with Powertex. Remember, all the materials you need for this project are available from Powertex Australia.
I thank you for taking the time to read my first blog for the Powertex Australia Design Team and please don’t forget to post your creation in our Facebook Group for all of us to see and admire!
I look forward to sharing more hints and tips with you all next month... Cheers to you all... Your Friendly Neighbourhood Powertex Fanatic...
RenWA ( Renee’)
Artwork & Blogpost by Erika Venter, QLD.
This month’s theme is Cupids Lane a month to share your love with someone special. I created this Chocolate box especially as an after dinner treat for my guests. This box kit is now available to purchase in Australia. I hope you will be inspired and make your very own personalised box.
You can use any thing to decorate this box but since it’s the month of love I used the Heart Attack Stencil, Angel wings, the word LOVE, felt for the inside of the box, cardboard, scrapbook paper, scissors & a marker pen.
Place the pieces of your box onto the felt and trace around the edges and cut out. Put the felt aside and start assemble your box.
Tear the scrapbook paper and cardboard into a shape that you like to decorate the top of your box. Paint the box inside out with Red Powertex. I used 2 layers to get good coverage... the paint absorbs very quickly so you need to work fast!
Pour Black Powertex into a container and paint the angels, wings, the word LOVE and the top of your box. You need to be very careful not to go over the edges of the paper. Let it dry and then apply a second layer to get a good coverage. Use Red Powertex to paint the back and front of the cardboard and place it over the black paper, the way you like it.
Use Easycoat mat mixed with Colourtrix Pearl Red & Rich Gold to embellish your bits for the inside of the box. I used Easycoat mat to glue them onto the inside of the lid... just make sure that you leave enough space so that the lid can close.
I used the same pigments on the lid. Remember to use gentle brush strokes when applying the Colourtrix... if you use too much on the paintbrush you will get brush marks. On the black, I started with the Pearl Red and then finished it off with the Rich Gold. I even painted some on the sand and balls to create a golden cloud. I really enjoyed this project very much. I finished my little box off with some Ferro Roche chocolates for the inside!!!
I had so much fun creating this Valentine chocolate box and now it’s just a temptation... waiting for the big day on the 14th February.
I hope you enjoy it as much as I did!
Artwork & Blog Post by Erika Venter, Powertex Australia Design Team.
Since this is the month of Love I decided to create a table centerpiece to use for my Valentines dinner.
I had a couple of ideas but then I thought it would be nice to make a heart with a flower arrangement.
Draw the shape of your heart on the Styrofoam. Once you are happy with the shape you can use a Stanley knife or a foam cutter to carve it out. TIP: Don’t throw out your off-cuts, as they can be useful for another project!
Open your Red Powertex & stir it well before use (then give it a shake). Use one plastic bowl for your Powertex & the other for some Stone Art. Paint one side of the heart and then apply the Stone Art to the wet Powertex so that it sticks, then do the same with the other side. Put it aside to dry.
Use 4 skewers to create an arrow. Two on each side. Twist masking tape around the skewers.
Next dip the fabric roses into the Powertex and hang them over the bowl so that the excess paint can drip off into the bowl. Paint the love hearts and skewers with Red Powertex and apply the stone art as on the big love heart. Make sure that you apply enough stone art. Put this also aside to dry.
While the roses are still wet use the red Bister to spray onto them, one by one, and use the hairdryer to dry it. Fine cracks will appear on the roses... I was very happy with this effect! Use the red Powertex to paint the stand and put aside to dry.
Use the left over Red Powertex and mix it with Stone Art to form a clay. Wrap it in plastic, so that it doesn’t dry out.
Cut 5 pieces of armature wire to make leaves, then use masking tape, stick the wire in between the tape and cut the tape into the shape of a leaf. Pore some Transparent Powertex into a container. Cut some small pieces of Paperdeco and spray mist it with water (don’t make it to wet), then stretch the paper deco to desired size. Paint the Paperdeco with Transparent Powertex and wrap it around the leaves. Apply another layer of Powertex over the leaf and put it aside to dry.
In this step it was so amazing to see how the red colour came through the Stone Art. To get this finish you will need some elbow power and a sponge! Rub all the excess Stone Art off of the big love heart, small ones and the arrow sticks until the red Powertex becomes visible. Poke the arrow through one of the small hearts and use Transparent Powertex to attach it to the big love heart.
Using the Stone Art clay, you can now make a sharp point and the back of the arrow. Using a rolling pin flatten out the clay, smear a small amount of Colourtrix Gold onto the surface and then roll it out very thinly. Finally, apply some Transparent Powertex onto the end of the arrow, tear pieces of clay and stick them onto the arrow end... (as pictured)
Once I had finished the elements, I was so excited to assemble my Valentine's Day love heart! To do so, you simply use Transparent Powertex to stick all the bits on where you would like them. It's easy to secure the roses and leaves by poking them into the Styrofoam heart and applying some Transparent so that they stay on. TIP: bend the leaves into a shape you like before attaching them. Then you can put your heart on the stand.
Finally, you can embellish the roses using Colourtrix Rich Gold and Easycoat Glossy. Mix the Easycoat Glossy with a bit of pigment and then use a dry brush technique to highlight the roses. Start with less and build up the colour until you're happy. Also remember to apply some on to the tip off the arrow! AND viola... it's finished!!!
I had so much fun designing and creating this Valentine...
I hope you enjoy it as much as I did!
See you soon.... Erika
Artwork & Blog Post by Helen Baldock, Powertex Australia Design Team.
Hey everyone, as many of you know the January inspiration theme from Powertex Australia is 'Precious Time' and a gorgeous Clock Kit is now available for purchase in Australia. When I first saw this kit I was so excited about what I could do with it and the creative juices started flowing immediately... this is what I did... I hope it inspires you to make one as well...
The Designer Kit includes:
Secondly I traced around the styrofoam so I could get an idea where I need to put the Powertex and then cut out a hole in the base for the clock mechanism with a jigsaw. Next pre-mix your Bister Powders and put them into small spray bottles, if you're unsure how to do this, there are instructions on how to mix the Bister Powders on the Powertex Australia website... its very easy! Then stir your Ivory Powertex and put approx. 250ml in a plastic container.
The next step is to use the Powertex Ivory and the Bister colour/s of your choice to create a crackle effect on the back of the MDF base and the clock face. (For the black and white clock pictured above I used Black Bister) Then you simply paint a small section of the MDF with powertex, spray the bister and then use a hairdryer to create the crackle. TIP: Start at one end and work away from yourself so you don't re-spray what you have already done. Repeat the process until finished (as pictured above).
Next get the styrofoam circle, cut a hole for the clock mechanism and paint the front face of the styrofoam black with Powertex or acrylic paint to emphasise the numbers. Place the clock mechanism in the styrofoam and then attach the face to the styrofoam with Powertex to ensure everything lines up. Once attached paint the side of styrofoam then put it aside (above left). Create the crackle effect again on the front flourish of the clock and attach the two small MDF embellishments as you go, then put aside.
Next create the crackle effect on the outside of the styrofoam flourish, it is a little tricky to go around all the curves without spraying to much over what you have already done... just be careful (above left). Now go back to the base and 'crack' all around the edges where the styrofoam won't be attached, and allow to dry (above right).
Finally finish all the elements and assemble. To do this you need to attach the styrofoam onto the base with Powertex, making sure it is centred, let it dry and then attach the front. (TIP: weigh down the MDF each time you attach it to the styrofoam.) To assemble the clock face, place the mechanism inside styrofoam making sure it sits inside the base, then adhere everything together with Powertex. Once it is all assembled, attach the hands to the clock and a hook on back for hanging. This clock is AMAZING! It will definitely WOW your friends and family and be a talking point in your home! Enjoy... (I have made two already and I still want to make more!!!)
The inaugural exhibition of "Uplifting" Art Bras for a Cause, over the weekend of 1st-3rd December, 2017, was a HUGE success! Organisers, volunteers, artists, judges and sponsors all came together for a common cause - to raise awareness of Breast Cancer by engaging the community through art, in support of Pink Ribbon. The number of entries received was overwhelming, with over 60 Art Bras on exhibition, including one that came all the way from Canada entitled, "Baby its Cold Outside" by Roslind Sherman. With the high standard of artwork and diversity of techniques demonstrated, Judges Barb Thoms (City of Mandurah) and Jacq Chorlton (Wearable Art Mandurah Winner) had their work cut out for them! Breast in Show (Best) was awarded to Donna Ree Muir for "Tits in a Tangle", made from Polymer Clay, with the intricacy of the design and the sophistication of technique wowing the judges! A piece that could easily be mistaken for fabric as you walk past... only to realise, upon closer inspection, the hours of work that must have gone into creating each element! The Power-Up Award, for best use of Powertex, went to Lin Reading for "Twin Peaks". Most Titillating (Humorous) was awarded to Sue Calderbank for "A Family Affair". Cups of Creativity (most Creative) went to Melissa Walmsely for "Need a Lift?" which was a fabulous interpretation of "Uplifting", and finally the Bra-tastic Award (People's Choice) went to Di M. Christie for "I am More than My Breast". Each artist received a beautiful framed archival art print by Matthew Johnstone (Drawn from Experience) plus some other fabulous prizes that were donated by our generous sponsors (listed below). CONGRATULATIONS to the winners, WELL DONE to all the contributing artists and a BIG THANK YOU to our sponsors... without you all the event would not have been possible! The Art Bras that have been donated by the artists, to this event, will be auctioned next year... so stay tuned... more news coming soon!!!!
"Uplifting" Art Bra Exhibition Opening Awards Night at VIVID Gallery Mandurah WA
an Initiative of Powertex Australia
Thanks to our Generous Sponsors
Vivid Gallery, Terrace Art Framers, The Smart Street Mall, Drawn from Experience, Captain Cook River Cruises, Viva Photography, Shop for Shops, The Cake Gallery, Art & Craft World, Bayside Barista, Bayside BnB, Kojonup BnB, Tribe Hotels, The Pig & Whistle and Powertex Art Supplies & Workshops
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The year is racing away... and we are already in the third quarter of our monthly Inspiration Agenda!! If you are new to the Powertex community, each month we have set a theme to inspire your creativity... June's theme was "Ice" for some chilly winter inspiration.... Think "Ice Queen"... "Ice River"... "Ice Art"... "Iceland"... just for starters! The new theme for July is "White Christmas" lending itself to a continuation of the "Ice" theme... What will you create??? Join the Powertex Australia Group on Facebook today to share your creations... I look forward to seeing your "Icy" Artworks!!!!
As a sponsor of this years Wearable Art Mandurah competition, Powertex Australia offered the inaugural Powertex Award. It was exciting to see so many artists inspired to experiment with the medium to create innovative sculptural form in their garments. Marie Gallin and Helen Coleman, who both attended the popular Powertex workshop - Creating Sculptural Form in Wearable Art, with Ashley Hay - were major category winners. Marie Gallin and Jude Tupman were awarded Artist of the Year with their creation, "Boab".... their headdress demonstrated sophisticated, experimental use of Powertex, whilst the integration of the beautiful textile details with the medium was stunning.
Pictured: "Boab" by Marie Gallin & Jude Tupman. Photography by Elle Norgard.
Mandurah Artist, Helen Coleman won the Architectural Category with "Icarus Rising"... the innovative use of Powertex to create the bone structures of the wings and the ingenious design of the form to make it robust as it moved with the body was glorious... set against the gorgeous encaustic wax feathers the effect was incredible!
Pictured: "Icarus Rising" by Helen Coleman. Photography by Elle Norgard.
,The Winner of this year's inaugaral Powertex Award went to Silver Chain clients from Mandurah, Rockingham & Fremantle, in collaboration with Mandurah artist Carol Hazel, for "Sands of Time". The team experimented with various creative applications of Powertex in their garment. With Powertex used in nearly all the elements of the design it was a winner!
Pictured: "Sands of Time" by Silver Chain in collaboration with Carol Hazel. Photography by Elle Norgard.
There were many other beautiful garments that used Powertex. Featured below is "Khloris" by Suzette Darcy.
Pictured: "Khloris" by Suzette Darcy. Photography by Elle Norgard
Congratulations to all the designers in this years Wearable Art Mandurah competition... your artwork is incredible!
Ashley Hay is an artist and the Importer of Powertex for Australia. Ashley has become a great advocate for this amazing product and wishes to share her excitement about the versatility of Powertex with others.