Blogpost & Artwork by Erika Venter, QLD
The theme for this month is Seaside and our MDF kit is this lovely Seahorse. I was very excited to start designing this project and all the embellishments just made me even more exited! So, this is how I designed my Seaside September Seahorse.The theme for this month is Seaside and our MDF kit is this lovely Seahorse. I was very excited to start designing this project and all the embellishments just made me even more exited! So, this is how I designed my Seaside September Seahorse.
Use Powertex Ivory and paint both sides of the seahorse and let it dry completely. Make a little bit of paste by mixing Stone Art and Powertex Ivory in a bowl and use it to glue the tail and head together. Leave to dry. Paint another layer of Powertex Ivory onto the front of the Seahorse and cover with Stone Art. Press firmly onto the Stone Art to make sure it sticks onto the Powertex. I left mine outside in the sun to dry more quickly. While waiting for the Stone Art to dry start painting the MDF embellishments with Powertex Ivory and set aside to dry. I also painted some extra shells (some shells have a glaze on them so they will need a second coat)
When the Stone Art is dry rub all the excess off and place it in a separate container to use for another project. Pour Powertex Ivory into a bowl. Pre-measure the rope around the edges of the Seahorse to make sure its not to long or to short. Paint a strip around the edge and dip the rope into the PowerteX Ivory and drape it around the edges of the Seahorse making sure you press it into the Stone Art.
Use Powertex Ivory to paint over the Stone Art and then dip the MDF embellishments into the Powertex Ivovy and arrange them onto the Seahorse. Pour some 3D Sand and balls in some areas and leave to dry (I used a hairdryer on cold and low to speed up the process) Paint another layer over the 3D sand and balls to secure them onto the Seahorse.
Use Bister Yellow, Blue and Red to spritz some areas with colour, as desired. Then mix Colourtrix Blue with Easycoat glossy and apply it onto the 3D Balls using a dry brush technique. Use some Easycoat glossy and Glue the eye on. I also used Colourtrix Rich Gold to highlight the shells and the MDF embellishments. More embellishments can be added anytime. I used a little glass bottle with a note and 3D sand in it to complete my Seaside September Seahorse. This project will dry quickly to touch and will harden in a few days. If you wait for this Seahorse to cure fully for 3 weeks it can
I had so much fun design and creating this project,
but I feel there’s something missing…
He needs a friend… coming soon!
“ENJOY THE RIDE”
"Dabby" by Renee Warwick WA
Hi to all our Powertex Addicts, the July Inspirational Theme was Rusty Wisdom!!! When I opened my Designer Kit my heart skipped a beat… there were 2 big eyes staring up at me… Well hello there little one… Right away he had personality and I needed to bring him to life…. Here’s my Journey with Dabby the Dabbing Owl…!!!
Let the Fun Begin
WOW... What fun I had in creating Dabby!!!!My grandson's Jake & Ashley were my inspiration behind his name and quirky nature...
The boys loved the owl kit and were super excited hoping that this might be an activity they will do over the upcoming school holidays... Looks like Funky Nanna is going to have some fun with her boys! So, when I had my kit out with all the bits to design my owl one of the things that I had a bit of fun with were his wings... I love quirky... so of course his wings were going to be doing something quite different! Firstly, I had him playing hide and seek with us all… then I did it!!! The house erupted with noises of Yes Nanny that’s it leave him like that … So I knew I had a hit... Yes a winner for sure!!! Who knew my Owl was Dabbing and so were the boys by this time all over the house... That set the mood for the remainder of the arvo, the boys picked the tunes so that Dabby the Dabbing Owl could come to life...
So let's get you all started...
Prep your work area by covering your surface and any work mats with plastic. Get all your bits and bobs needed out and lastly don’t forget your warm soapy water and a jar or something with water to rinse your paintbrushes into, unless of course you would like to add these to your art work (remember Powertex will harden anything when dried including your brushes).… Could be pretty cool!
3. Prep your MDF pieces first by gently sanding both the top and back of all your mdf pieces, then wipe all the dust off. Using your DA Riverstone stencil and easy structure and your shopping card wipe some texture paste over the stencil to the body of your owl. Take care when lifting your stencil that you do not smudge your structure paste… Dry this using a hair dryer then use your cog stencil around in area of his belly. Again dry this layer with a hair dryer. Ensure that you wash both your stencils and shopping card. Put his body to one side & coat all your other mdf pieces and chippies with a layer of Powertex taking care to get into all the cracks and crevices. Paint Powertex onto the top of the owl's body when the easy structure paste is dried
4. Now before we turn him over, we'll attach his MDF beak pieces to his face... Using Powertex paint the back of the 2 beak pieces and place them one on top of the other where the marking is for them to go on the main body piece of MDF
5. Once this layer of Powertex has dried, if it’s looking a little translucent, it may need a second coat if not turn all your pieces over onto a clean piece of glad wrap and paint all the backs with Powertex.
6. Now we are going to prep our area to colour our pieces up, so do a quick tidy up around you and let’s get our colours out...
7. The owl's body I dried brush with Powercolours of Dark Brown and Titanium White... So, using the tip of a clean pallet knife get a small amount of your dark brown and place onto your piece of folded alfoil then do the same with the titanium white placing it onto the pallet but not on top of the brown... You'll now put a small drop of easycoat glossy onto this pallet but away from the pigments...
8. Using the tip of your brush pick up a little Easycoat Glossy then pick up a little dark brown rub this on the pallet on a clean area to make a dryish paste (not too wet or dry) then pick up a little titanium white and mix this into the brown paste. Now you're ready to dry brush this over his body, wings and feet... Keep repeating this step until you get the desired look... If you want to get lighter areas add more white to your mix and more brown if you want an area darker... Put a little brown onto your birds and the branches too…
9. Now let’s get down and dirty with our 'Faux Rust Technique…' So, on your palette if you still have some easycoat glossy left great if not add a little more... Now add a little of the following Powercolours to your pallet - red ochre, titanium white, either mars orange if you have it or mocha and omg my all-time favourite turquoise (don't forget the turquoise)... YAY ... are you ready??? Yes, well let’s get rusting our pieces up…
10. Starting with a mix of red ochre and Easycoat Glossy into a paste we will use the above dry brush technique. Dry brush this all over the fronts of your cogs, barbed wire, hinges, your branches, leaves and the area on his belly that you used the cog stencil on... mmmmm nice huh... Ok now we will dry brush our mars orange around on all these pieces that we put the red ochre (at this stage we are not colouring the whole area with this colour just little here and there). Ooooohhhhh Yeah are you getting excited... Lastly clean and dry your brush really well (it should not be moist from water)... Now we are going to pick up some easycoat glossy with the tip of our brush, then pick up a little of the turquoise, mix this into a paste on the pallet then add a little titanium white with the tip of your brush and mix into the turquoise... The first layer with this colour you doesn’t want too light ... Now dry brush this sparingly over all your cogs, hinges, leaves and the leaves on the branches and a little on the belly of your birds and truly this is just a hint on the cogs, but on the leaves, you can go a little heavier if you like... Now to add some ‘Metallic Colourtrix Magic’
11. We’re using Rich Gold and White silver with easycoat glossy… as with your above colours put a little bit of each of these colourtrix colours out onto you piece of alfoil and a tiny bit of easycoat glossy… I dried brushed white silver using the above technique on the owl’s head, on the stone stencilled part of his body, the edges of his wings, feet and the birds’ breast where the turquoise was brushed… The rich gold I dried brushed onto the cogs, a little on the hinges & barbed wire. I only put a very small amount around, this is a highlight only…
12. Now for the Assemblage... (Clean your area & clean your brushes well with warm soapy water. Hope that you’re having fun and not feeling like Sadie the Cleaning Lady). You will need your Powertex, brush, water, readymade stoneart clay for the next steps so get them ready…
13. Now go back to your phone and look at the picture that you took of your layout and where you wanted all your yummy pieces to go. Lay these over your owl’s body… Happy? You will also notice his beak on my pic has been 3D’d I did this by using a piece of stone art clay that I shaped into a teardrop put some green Powertex onto his beak then pushed this piece of clay onto it and gently shaping it around his beak. Then I dry brushed some rich gold onto this.
14. Now start attaching your pieces by using the green Powertex as a glue for all your pieces… Any that you would like raised or need a little more stick that is where you will use a little stone art clay under your pieces before sticking down… Remember to paint a little green Powertex on the base of your chippy then put the clay on top of that then paint a little more Powertex on the clay surface then gently push into place… Voila!!!
15. Remember you will have time to amend and move pieces as the Powertex is a slow drying adhesive but be careful as we are using green and we have pre coloured our pieces so having a damp cloth to wipe any excess Powertex that be visible on your embellished surface due to you relocating a piece. If you are lucky enough to have transparent Powertex in your collection then I advise to use this to alleviate this problem.
16. Wings Assemblage – the 2 large halves of the cogs I stuck to the underneath of my wings. How I did this was by painting a little green Powertex onto the ends of the cogs placed a little stone art clay applied a little more Powertex onto the top of this clay then pushed my wings into position on top of these exposing the bottom of the cogs (please refer to pic). Stick your hinges into place. Then stick your wings into position. Depending on how you are positioning the wings you may need a little stone art clay to assist with this process…
17. Barbed wire assemblage – you guessed it again this is where stone art clay is a much needed to hold your 2 pieces together, that is if you want it how I have placed them together… Review all your pieces and where you have put them if any of these don’t have much surface area of Powertex being used as your glue then gently lift and add stoneart.
So what have you called your Owl? Did he or she talk to you along the way??? Remember all the products & pieces I have used are available now at Powertex Australia. I thank you for taking the time to read my blog for the Design Team of Powertex Australia and please don’t forget to post photos of your creation onto our Powertex Australia Group on Facebook for all of us to see and admire - click here... and if you can add them to the July – Rusty Folder… If you don’t have Facebook don’t worry if you email a pic to Ashley and we will put this up for you... email
I look forward to sharing more hints and tips with you all next month.
Cheers to you all
Your Friendly Neighbourhood Powertex Fanatic
RenWA ( Reneé Warwick)
Resources to use:
How to make Stone Art Clay: here
The first thought that popped into my head when presented with the theme Rusty and an MDF Owl was an old English nursery rhyme from my childhood that really resonated with me through childhood and into adulthood. Maybe because it is an adage that I am still trying to achieve. It was also an opportunity to bring on the rust. However, I wanted some other colour in the mix and decided upon a hint of purple because of its association with royalty, dignity and wisdom and spiritually with the higher self to which this nursery rhyme alludes.
A Wise Old Owl.
A wise old owl lived in an oak
The more he saw the less he spoke
The less he spoke the more he heard.
Why can't we all be like that wise old bird?
Step One - Design Layout
Step Two – Making the Rusty Structure Paste
Using a flat spatula, mix together Easy Structure, Boom Gel Stain (colours of your choice), rusty powder, sand and balls. The Easy Structure will make the rust section thicker to scratch back into but you can also make a rusty paste with a light coloured powertex universal medium (such as ivory).
Step Three – Apply Paste to Rust the Owl
Step Four– Forehead Feathers
Step Five – Make Stone Art
Step Six – Assembling the Owl
Step Seven – Embellishing
Step Seven – Final Touch Ups
Congratulations! I hope you loved it and have fun creating one.
Please share your art on Powertex Australia Group on Facebook
Blogpost and Artwork by Erika Venter, Monto QLD
The inspiration theme for July is Rusty Wisdom, with the kit featuring an Owl...
I was super excited to get started!
Trace the front and back of the owl onto the Rustic wood paper (or similar), then mark the position of the eyes and cut them out. Using Easycoat Glossy apply a layer onto the front of the Owl and stick the paper on. Tip: the Easycoat Glossy dries quickly so you need to work fast...
Shake & Stir Powertex Bronze well before use. Paint the inside of the eyes and the rest of the body parts (as pictured above).
Cut strips of cheese cloth or stockinette, dip it into Powertex Bronze and then drape it onto the Owl to create suspenders for the pants and texture on the head.
Mix Powertex Bronze with Stone Art to get a paste. Apply the Stone Art to the wings and layer it with bark. Then apply some onto the back of the wings, buttons, gears and the MDF eye bits and stick them onto the body. Leave to dry before the next step. Cover the leftover paste and set aside to use later.
Mix Powertex Transparent, Rusty Powder and 3D balls together, then apply it onto the Owl the desired amount. Spray with Vinegar water and let the Rust process begin.... leave for 24 hours. For more information on how to use Rusty Powder click here
Using your choice of Colourtrix metallic pigments dry brush the textures of the Owl. I got a bit carried away and found a perfect piece of wood in the garden, painted it with Powertex Bronze and made my Owl sit on it. It just finished off what I had in mind for my Rustic Old Owl. Finally, I used Easycoat Glossy to glue the glass eyes on, as well as the back of the owl.
This was so much fun and I love my end result.
This Owl project will allow you to experiment with the Rust powder,
3DBalls, Stone Art and Easy3Dflex.
Join me on my creative journey with Powertex
Enjoy the ride...
Artwork & Blogpost by Erika Venter, QLD
The inspiration theme for this month is Steampunk and the kit is a Dragonfly which is now available from powertex...
I was super exited to get started!
Stir & shake Powertex Bronze well before use, assemble and paint the MDF Dragonfly. Use bigger gears and stick them with Powertex onto the middle of the body to hold everyting together. To create some texture measure and fit Paper deco onto the wings and tail. Spray mist the Paper Deco with water and tease it apart - don’t make it too wet.
I draped the chain in between and around the gears on the wings and also on the tail. Using Powertex Bronze to secure every piece on the wings and the tail. Then left it to dry completley.
I enjoy the Colourtrix metallic pigments so much and it’s always really hard to decide what colour scheme to use… I love the Colourtrix Magic Blue and used that as my base colour mixed with Easycoat mat and covered the whole Dragonfly with it. I then used Colourtrix Magic Purple to highligt some areas on the wings and tail. Colourtrix Bronze Gold and Clear Gold were used for the final touches.
Use Easycoat mat to glue the gemstones, eyes and clocks onto the wings and tail. Your Steampunk Dragonfly is now ready to hang it up where everybody will admire it.
This was so much fun and I love my end result!
This Steampunk Dragonfly project will allow you to make use of a variety of techniques using Powertex, Paper deco, Colourtrix and Easycoat Mat.
Join me on my creative journey with Powertex
Enjoy the ride
I was very excited when I received the Art Dolls as the next design challenge. For a while, I have been wanting to enlarge some of the recycled jewellery pieces I design to make them into wall art, so my mind leapt straight to that idea. An epiphany in the night made me think of the using Powertex Sand and Balls for the Red Queen’s hair and I knew I just had to go with one of my all-time favourite themes of Wonderland. I wanted to play with the juxtaposition of the youthful Alice fresh full of ideas that seem new and the older Red Queen seemingly more powerful but chained to time and her cage full of belongings. I also wanted my work to have an overall silver feel to symbolise a galvanised archetypal story but themed Alice in Pale Blue & Silver and the Red Queen in Red & Gold. They share the colours in their heart as there is a little bit of Alice and Queen in us all.
Step One - Design Layout
Step Two – Make Plaster Pieces
Step Three – Build the Red Queen’s Hair Form
Step Four – Seal the MDF Doll Pieces
Step Five – Make the Red Queen’s Hair
Step Six – Make Stone Art Clay
Step Seven – Create the Red Queen’s Bodice
Step Eight – Build the Box for behind the Red Queen’s Dress
Step Nine - Create Alice’s Dress and Attach Face and Hair
Step Ten – Colourtrix Red Queen and Alice Pieces
Step Eleven – Assemble Doll and Embellish with Found Objects or Jewellery
Step Twelve – Attach the Box Behind the Red Queen’s Dress.
Eventually, I will mount these onto a mirror – through the looking glass.
You could mount on a stand or attach a d-hook on the back as illustrated in my Boho Violin and Eostre Blogs and hang them on your wall.
I Hope you enjoy creating your own
Art Dolls. See you next time Natalie P.
Artwork & Blog post by Erika Venter, QLD
The theme for this month is Quintessentially Quirky and this gorgeous Art Doll kit is now available from Powertex Australia.
I had so much fun designing and creating this quirky Art Doll. This project took me back to my childhood when we used to play with paper dress-up dolls. Since this month is Mother’s Day, I thought that this could be a great gift if I made it functional! So, this is how I created a Quirky Art Doll Fridge magnet.
Choose your favourite Art Doll kit, select and trace the arms, body and wings (as pictured above) onto coloured paper. TIP: ensure the arms that the arms are around the right way when you trace them! Cut all body parts out and glue the paper pieces onto the Art Doll using Easycoat mat decoupage glue. Apply another layer of the Easycoat mat on top of the paper to seal. Put aside to dry.
Use cling wrap and cover the top and bottom part of the doll and leave the middle clear. Using pre-cut strips of Stockinette, dip them into the Powertex colour of your choice (I used Green) and massage the Powertex into the fabric… TIP: don’t soak it as you will waste the product and it will take too long to dry…. Drape it over the cling wrap by making sure it sticks onto the middle of the doll. Leave to dry (if you are in a hurry use a hairdryer to dry it more quickly). Paint the dolls’ hat or crowns with Powertex and leave to dry… I had this little hat in my stash!
Use the split pins and assemble the MDF doll. I also used Easycoat mat to glue the wings on to the back of the doll… you could use Powertex if you prefer.
I wanted to create the look of a Victorian lady, so I used an old necklace that I cut up into pieces for the hat, brooch and waistline. To glue all bits and pieces on I found it easier to use a hot glue gun which gave an instant stick. I folded the hat in half and glued it onto the front and back of the dolls’ head and then decorated the hat with a piece of the jewellery, feathers and a metal butterfly. I used some lace for the neckline, cuffs and middle and created a brooch with another piece of the jewellery and a feather. To finish off the dress I glued another piece of jewellery onto the waistline and a feather on both sides, then left it aside to dry.
Glue the magnets onto the back of the small canvas (as pictured above), then use a sponge to apply Powertex Ivory to the front of the canvas… remember to do the sides as well! Use a little bit of Powertex Green to dab onto the Ivory to create some shading… dark to light, from one corner to the next. Stick the notepad onto the darker corner of the canvas while its still wet. Apply Powertex Ivory onto the back of your quirky Art Doll and stick it onto the lighter side of the canvas and leave it to dry.
This Quintessentially Quirky gift will make any mother’s heart melt… so why wait.... create it for mum today!
This was so much fun and I love my end result!
This Quintessentially Quirky Art Doll will allow you to turn the clock back in time and give you many hours of fun as you let your imagination run wild to dress her up using Powertex and Mixed Media!
I look forward to seeing what you do with your Art Doll Kits!!!
Enjoy the ride
HAPPY MOTHER’S DAY
Artwork and Blog Post by Natalie Parish, QLD
Step One - Planning
This piece was ephemeral in its planning as I wanted it to flow from a concept rather than a design (this is how I often create… but things can get a bit messy). My concept was to explore the pagan roots of Easter by creating a piece in honour of Eostre the goddess of spring/dawn. Eostre also had to bear the cross of being punished for bringing the light to humankind. I decided I wanted to work in a colour I don’t usually use. As a result, you will see that during construction some pieces look almost finished whilst new bits are being added, while I got a feel for the piece. In retrospect, I probably could have assembled the piece all in white before spraying with Powertex Bister and Ranger Dylusion ink. Therefore, it is worthwhile reading the entire blog through before beginning and you may choose to use completely different colours and embellishments. Happy creating…
From your useful box
Step Two - Sealing
Step Three - Building Eostre’s arms
Step Four - Prepare Stone Art & 3D Flex
Step Five - Prepare your Bister
Step Six - Paper Decoration and Wings
Step Seven - Paper Decoration, dressing Eostre
Step Eight - Clay your Cross & Dusty Attic Wings
Step Nine - Mounting Eostre
Step Ten - Bister
Step Eleven - Powertex Flowers & Embellishments
Step Twelve - Lotus and Bister Cracking
Step Thirteen - High light in White
Step Fourteen - Transparent Powertex Lace Flowers and Stone Art Attachments
Congratulations your Goddess is complete!
I hope you enjoyed this project!
See you next time...
All materials available from
Powertex Australia or Bagend Studio
Artwork & Blog post by Erika Venter, QLD
This month’s theme is Easter Inspiration and our kit of the month is a Celtic Cross with wings. I was so excited when I received the kit because Easter and a Cross just go together so well, and my mind ran away with all sorts of ideas!
Before I started the project, I asked the Question:
"What is the meaning of the Celtic Cross?"
The Celtic Cross is a symbol used today in many contexts, both religious and secular. The Celtic Cross is like a traditional cross but with a ring around the intersection of the stem and arms. The whole cross is often decorated with ornate Gaelic patterns. Sometimes the Celtic cross is set on a tall base to resemble more closely the traditional Christian cross, and at other times the symbol stands alone. The Celtic cross is sometimes nothing more than a simple “stick” drawing on a gravestone or at a religious site; other times it is sculpted and quite ornate. The Celtic cross is also called the “sun cross” by some who interpret the ring to represent the sun.
I liked the idea of setting the cross on a tall base but then I thought a canvas will do nicely because it would be something to hang on my wall that I could look at it every day. So, this how I designed my Celtic Cross….
Draw a cross onto the Styrofoam - a bit bigger than the MDF cross in the kit - then cut it out using the Stanley knife. Remove the top layer and sides from the Styrofoam (scouring it with your fingers or a serrated knife)… it may be messy, so its handy to have a portable vacuum close by!
I wasn’t sure what colour to do the cross and wings so I painted them blue on one side and Ivory on the other, then let them dry. Paint the canvas blue using a roller (it’s much easier to use a roller for a bigger surface and you will use less Powertex) Use a bigger paint brush and apply Powertex Ivory over the blue – allowing some of the blue to still come through. Place the Styrofoam cross in the centre of the canvas and stick it on using Powertex Transparent.
Cut the Paperdeco into two pieces the same size as the Styrofoam cross. Wet the paper deco with a bit off water and stretched it so that it fit over the cross. Apply a layer of Powertex Transparent onto the Styrofoam and then place the Paperdeco onto the cross, applying another layer of Transparent ove.r it so that it sticks. Let it touch dry. TIP: it’s always handy to have a hairdryer in reach if you’re in a hurry
Mix some3DFlex with Powertex Ivory until you get a paste, add it to the bottom of the canvas to create texture and then use 3D sand and balls to create more interest. Spray the 3Dflex with Blue Bister to greater a cloud effect.
Apply Colourtrix Blue, Bronze Gold and Gold using Easycoat mat onto the Paperdeco to create a bark effect. It looks really good with the Powertex blue in the background.
I was still not sure whether to use the Blue or White for the cross and wings, so in the meantime, I mixed 3DFlex and Powertex Ivory to create more texture on the bottom and then sprinkled some of the sand over it. I sprayed Bister Natural Brown over the 3Dflex while it was still wet. Then I left it outside to dry and start a crackle effect. TIP: if you use too much Bister you can just wipe some off with a damp cloth until you reach the desired colour.
Finally, I made up my mind to go with the Ivory side of the Wings and Cross. I had an idea to make the wings look like there were feathers on it and to make the look rusty. To do this, mix Powertex Ivory with 3D sand and rusty powder until it goes a dark grey colour, then use a spatula and apply it to the cross. Spray 50% vinegar and water mix over it and allow to dry. Repeat the vinegar application at least 3 times. This won’t rust immediately - it will happen overnight. Set it aside.
For the wings you need to mix Powertex Ivory with 3DFlex powder until you get a runny mix. Use a spatula and apply it on to the tips of the wings and leave it to dry.
Decide where to position the wings and cross, then use Powertex Transparent to glue them on. To finished off the Celtic cross you can decorate it with rhinestones or just use Colourtrix for embellishments. I used Colourtrix Clear Gold on the wings and the cross. You can use the same Colourtrix for the 3D Sand and Balls on the bottom of the canvas, which just makes them stand out more.
When I stood, I decided to change the brown earth look to a much lighter sky and cloud effect and this is how I changed it…. I used Powertex Ivory and painted over the brown at the bottom of the canvas. I then used Powertex Blue with my big paintbrush to create a cloud. This was the best decision I made because my Celtic Cross just came alive and I was so happy!!!
I am glad I first decided to go with the earth effect because this gives you two different ways to create your Celtic Cross.
This was so much fun and I loved my end result!
This Celtic Cross with Wings project will allow you to make use of a variety of techniques using Powertex, 3DFlex, Bister, Easycoat Mat and 3 Colourtrix colours.
Join me on my creative journey with Powertex
Enjoy the ride
Artwork & Blog post by Renee' Warwick WA
Hi to all our Powertex Addicts! Here we are again with this month’s Inspirational Theme: Music Magic!!! When Ashley gave me my Designer kit my heart was singing and I couldn’t wait to go and start creating an altered violin… Music’s in the air for sure...
How did you go with last month’s theme? Did you have as much fun as I did?
Now you can have some more....
Materials that I used were:
Let the fun begin
Firstly, get some music going, remember I’m an 80’s gal so I like to ‘She Bop’ as I go about getting everything prepped to go... don’t forget to chill your refreshment’s or put a brew on... it’s all about enjoying your creative journey. Next prep your area by covering your work surface in some plastic, get all your bits and bobs out and lastly don’t forget your warm soapy water and a jar with water to rinse your paintbrushes, unless of course you would like to add these to your art work (remember Powertex will harden anything when dried) … Could be pretty cool.! Hmmm maybe later I will do a tutorial in this for you.
Shake and stir your Powertex and pour a small amount of Bronze into a plastic cup (cover with plastic wrap till ready to use), then do the same with the Ivory.
Ok now it’s time to carefully push out all your Dusty attic chippy pieces & the violin bits. A little word of advice if you are having trouble getting these pieces out of the framework carefully use the blade of the Stanley knife to loosen some of the joints. Lay the violin pieces down on top of one another with the large piece as your base, then then smaller violin shape on top of that, then the neck of the violin. I always like to then lay all my pieces out and plan the design before I start. Taking a picture at this stage on your phone helps for later.
Take the smaller shapes of the violin and place them on top of your Styrofoam and trace around the outside of the shape. Then cut this out either with your hot knife or the blade of a Stanley knife (if using a knife please ensure that you have a cutting board under your work and keep fingers clear of the blade). This will give you a more 3-Dimensional look to your altered violin, you can leave this stage out if you wish. (keep your off cuts of the Styrofoam for a later stage).
Take the larger violin shape and paint the whole surface with Bronze Powertex then paint the surface of the Styrofoam and place this on top of the large violin shape. Make sure that it is positioned well into the middle & adjust where necessary as the Powertex when dry will adhere these pieces together… paint the top of the Styrofoam and the underside of the smaller of the violin shape with Bronze Powertex and place these together. Then paint the Bronze all around the sides of the altered violin including the Styrofoam if you used it in the middle.
Paint the top of the altered violin with Ivory Powertex taking care not to drip it down the sides, allow this to dry. Also paint the long neck of the violin with Ivory too… While this is drying it’s a great time to check on those tunes and make a coffee or depending on the time of day open something more refreshing… Ah yes wine, it never goes astray…
Now we’re going to do something very tricky, Decoupaging. If you have serviette that you’d like to use (I used one that my mum had given me for my stash – got to love your mum), please pull apart the layers so that you are left with only the top printed layer of the serviette (generally they have 3 layers). If you don’t have a serviette, Powertex also have a lovely range of silk papers and the vintage postal one would be great for this. If using our silk paper, you will use it as is as there are no extra layers to worry about, ahhh how good is that. Place the printed paper over the top of the violin (you can see in my pic that it doesn’t cover the length don’t worry tear and add to it as we go), pour a little Easycoat Glossy or Matt onto your alfoil palette and with a flat paint brush, load the brush with the Easycoat and then apply liberally over the surface of the paper starting from the middle and work your way out towards the edges. Pay particular care around the edges and the violin’s cut outs - ensure, in these areas, that you run the brush gently around and it should start dissolving away for you making it easy for you to remove the bits… If you weren’t able to cover the neck of the violin remember I said earlier that we can add this after, well now we go back and use what is left of our paper and do the same. Now allow this to dry. Woo hoo another break but remember to clean as you go and that means your brushes too.
,Distressing the edges – You will need a small sponge and dip lightly into the Ivory Powertex and rub around the edges so it starts to look rubbed out. Just lightly don’t over do it
Okay now let’s get our 3rd piece that we have been waiting eagerly to add so that our violin can make music to our eye’s. Thank you for being patient. Now to give it a more 3-Dimensional look, like the body of the violin, we will cut 3 small rectangular pieces from the off cuts of the Styrofoam and using the Ivory Powertex paint these pieces and add them to the underside of the long string MDF piece. Before turning it over and putting it into place ensure that you paint some ivory on these 3 Styrofoam pieces so that it will adhere to the surface of the violin, with a gentle but firm hand put in place. Note- I put these 3 pieces one near the top, one near the middle and the other near the tip.
Let’s have some fun now with your chosen embellishments for your altered violin. Lay your elements around the top of the violin to see if you’re still happy with your design. This is where you can tweak your design and go as crazy as you like. TIP – I cut apart my DA Floral Fantasy piece into pieces (visible in the picture) and positioned these nicely around so it looks like it’s wrapping around the surface of the violin then positioned my paper flowers
NOTE - I felt my piece needed another element of interest so I added 2 little pieces of Hessian
Paint all the tops of your Dusty Attic pieces, flowers and hessian in Ivory Powertex and leave to dry. The first pieces to lay down will be the hessian so cover the back of this with the Ivory and put some Ivory Powertex on the violin where you would like these pieces to be and lay them in place. Next, paint the backs of the DA Floral Fantasy piece by piece and lay each down while the Powertex is still wet on the back. Finally, and I’m sure you guessed it, do the same with your paper flowers.... I was really excited at this stage, I hope that you are too!
Putting on the Ritz /Glitz... oops sorry the Grunge. Get your alfoil pallet ready put 2 small scoops of easy structure on this. In the first pile of easy structure add a teaspoon of 3D Sand & Small Balls and enough Rusty Powder when mixed with your pallet knife that it looks dark grey. Using your pallet knife scrape portions of this around the neck and top of the violin – refer to pic. While this is still wet add some of your larger 3D Balls pushing them gently into the paste. Now spritz these area’s generously with your vinegar spray. Add your blue after the 1st spray of vinegar is dry. NOTE - You will need to spray your rusty areas about 3-4 times initially as this is what activates the rusty powder to become Rust. I highly recommend watching Ashley’s YouTube video: How to Use Rusty Powder ... click here
Now with the 2nd small amount of easy structure add the 3D Sand and 3D Small Balls and Dark Blue Powercolour, mix well. Again, add this around your violin. This does not need to be spritzed with the vinegar but it won’t hurt it if you get it on this surface while spraying your Rusty surface.
Now we can have some fun with your Bister Spray. I used Original Liquid Bister - it’s my go to colour in the range. Now you can go silly with the spray cover all your ivory surfaces and embellishments. To get it to crackle, use your hairdryer on hot and go over all the areas of Bister - not too close or you’ll be decorating your walls with your spray. I was lucky it was super-hot here in WA and when I put it out in the sun to dry it did it’s magic…
Leave overnight before embellishing the edges with your Colourtrix.
Time to sit back and relax and admire your beautiful piece, tomorrow I assure you it will look amazing... not that it doesn’t already, right?
Hmm mm was I right? Is it amazing? One last thing to do oops sorry I lied 2…
With your Bronze Gold Colourtrix and Easycoat Glossy you need to dry bush around the sides - I LOVED my rust and crackle effects so much that I chose not to go over these areas with any colourtrix. Also don’t forget to paint the back with Bronze Powertex, this is not necessary if you are going to frame it.
How mesmerising is your piece? I’m sure it has the WOW factor!!! I love, love, LOVE mine and I hope that I have inspired and helped you on your creative journey in feeling the same about your piece...
I thank you for taking the time to read my blog for the Powertex Australia Design Team and please don’t forget to post your creation onto our Facebook Group for all of us to see and admire… (click here to join) If you aren't on Facebook you can email your images to Powertex and we will post them for you (email). All the materials that I design with are readily available through Powertex Australia https://www.powertex.com.au/
I look forward to sharing more hints and tips with you all next month & oooo next month is soooooo exciting I can’t wait to share my design with you.
Until then Cheers to you all...
Your Friendly Neighbourhood Powertex Fanatic
RenWA ( Renee’ Warwick)
Ashley Hay is an artist and the Importer of Powertex for Australia. Ashley has become a great advocate for this amazing product and wishes to share her excitement about the versatility of Powertex with others.